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Black-eyed Peas
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In
the southern United States, blackeyed peas are
available dried, fresh, canned, and frozen. Blackeyed peas are neither a pea nor
a bean. They are lentils. Brought to the West Indies from Africa, they came north into
Georgia in the 1730s and multiplied so rapidly that they became known as the common
"field pea". The blackeyed
pea is also known as the cowpea because they were important as a feed for cattle in eighteenth-century America. President Jefferson even planted blackeyed peas
at Monticello.
There is an old Southern tradition for serving blackeyed peas on the New Year's day table that is popular in many American homes. Blackeyed peas are often cooked with pork, rice and pungent seasonings and served with collard greens and cornbread to complete the meal. The custom of serving a humble dish like blackeyed peas, greens and cornbread on New Year's Day
equates to the belief that this will bring good luck and financial success
for the coming year. The blackeyed peas are
“coins”, the collard greens represent “greenbacks” and the cornbread is gold.
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American New Year's Day Tradition
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Be sure to try my recipes
featuring black-eyed peas , or add Hoppin John to your New Year's holiday table for good luck.
I always wondered how the tradition
of serving blackeyed
peas got started, and while on a visit
back home I had an opportunity to ask some of my
elderly relatives what they knew about this
time-honored tradition. Here's what they
had to say:
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Grandma Myrtle says that back in
the days of the Old South, during the
time of Southern gentility, and Northern
hostility, the celebrated black eyed
peas were used strictly for the feeding
of cattle. During the Civil War
battle of Vicksburg, the town was under
siege for over 40 days. The Yankee soldiers
burned all the crops except for the
"cowpeas" which they considered
worthless weeds. The Union army raided all
the food supplies and took everything
except the "cow peas" stored
for the winter. With no supplies
coming in the citizens suffered great
deprivations.The entire town was
on the brink of starvation, so in desperation
they ate those humble "cowpeas"
and were lucky to survive the war, thus
starting a Southern tradition. Nowadays
that is why it is considered good luck
to eat black eyed peas on New Years
Day.
Aunt Leda told me the black eyed
peas signify coins and the collard greens
represent currency and thus represent
hopes of prosperity and good luck in
the coming new year. She says
that hasn't happened yet, but maybe
this year will be the one…
Aunt Irma, a retired librarian,
said that all the way back to the days
of the Pharaoh, blackeyed peas have
been a symbol of luck and fortune. The
superstition is that those who eat blackeyes, an inexpensive and modest food,
show their humility instead of vanity, and thus save themselves
from the wrath of the gods.
My mother's neighbor, Miss Aggie,
a wizened lady of nearly 90 says that
her mother always began the New Year's
Day dinner with the ceremonious passing
of the bowl of blackeyed peas in which
a dime has been embedded. She
was adamant that you "firstly had
to wersh n' wrench the dime real good".
Each person takes only one spoonful
of peas -- no stirring around allowed -- until
someone lucky gets the dime. That person
is supposed to have unusually good luck
during the year.
My second cousin, John who isn't
at all fond of blackeyed peas, but
nonetheless attends to the family tradition
on New Years day, has a different solution.
The basic idea is that each black
eyed pea eaten on New Years Day ensures
one day of good luck in the coming year.
He emphasizes the blackeyed peas
must be eaten before noon to bring good
luck. His wife, June, added that
all the football games start at noon,
and John only eats enough black eyed
peas to be lucky for about two weeks.
Uncle Joe tells me "Hoppin' John" is the recipe of the day for New Year's. He says the, "The rice is for riches and the peas are for
peace".
Want to read about New Year tradtions around
the world click here.
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Hoppin' John
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Hoppin' John is a favorite New Year's day dish for many Americans, especially those with Southern roots. The first mention of the dish by name was in 1830. Some scholars identify it as a West African dish carried to the
colonies by slaves from the Congo. Yet another popular theory highlights the influence of the Seminole Indians. Most folks agree that "Hopping John" is an American
dish with African/French/Caribbean roots.
Recipes for Hoppin' John are numerous and constantly changing. While the basics include rice, beans, and meat in some combination, it has included cowpeas, red peas and small black peas, often with bacon, fried sausage, ham, onion, mint, red pepper, file powder, cured pork,
pork jowls, ham hock and so on. Traditionally hoppin John is served
on the same plate but some like the rice, beans, and meat kept separate from one
another. There are just as many ways to cook Hoppin' John, with some cooking the peas
and rice in one pot, while others insist on simmering them
separately.
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There are many tales or legends that
explain how Hoppin' John got its strange name:
Some say that the dish got its name from a corruption of the word,
bahatta-kachang, the latter is a Madagascar term for "pea", and the former a Hindi
word for "cooked rice."
It was the custom for children to gather in the dining room as the dish
was brought forth and hop around the table before sitting down to
eat.
A man named John came "a-hoppin" when his wife took the dish from the
stove.
An obscure South Carolina custom was inviting a guest to eat by saying,
"Hop in, John".
The dish goes back at least as far as 1841, when, according to tradition,
it was hawked in the streets of Charleston, South Carolina by a crippled black
man known as Hoppin' John
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Hoppin' John is a traditional New Year's dish that brings lots of good luck in the upcoming New Year. To top it off nicely, add a bottle of vinegar, some pickled hot peppers like pepperoncini or jalapeños, and some Tabasco. Don't forget the cornbread!
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1/2 lb bulk sausage, variety of choice
- 4 cloves garlic, minced
- 1 large onion, chopped
- 1/2 lb smoked kielbasa, cut into 1" pieces
- 1 bay leaf
- 2 teaspoons dried thyme
- 2 cups dried black-eyed peas, picked clean and rinsed
- 2 (16 ounce) cans chicken broth
- 1 bunch (about 1 lb) collard or greens of choice
- Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes to taste
- 1 teaspoon liquid smoke
Heat a large pressure cooker over medium-high heat. Add the oil and saute the onion until translucent. Add the bulk sausage and brown, stirring to get it nicely crumbled. Add the kielbasa and garlic, bay leaf and thyme, the black-eyed peas and chicken broth. If needed, add enough additional water to cover the ingredients by 2 inches. Bring the contents to a boil over medium-high heat using only the regulaer lid. In he meantime, wash the greens thoroughly, trim off the thick stems and ribs, and remove any discolored spots. Stack the leaves and roll them up cigar-fashion, from top to bottom. Cut the leaf roll into 1-inch strips. Add the greens when the liquid begins to simmer pushing the down until the begin to wilt. Lock the lid into place. Bring to 15psi over high heat then lower the heat to maintain the pressure. Cook for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and use the natural release method to open the lid. If the peas are not done to your satisfaction, return to high pressure for another 2 minutes. Next, stir in the liquid smoke and adjust seasonings to taste. Serve the Hoppin' John on a deep plate next to a mound of hot fluffy white rice with a big square of cornbread to sop up all that "pot liquor.
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