History of the Pressure Cooker
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Early
Development
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The first version of
a pressure cooker was created in 1680 by Denis Papin. He
made a
large cast iron vessel with a lid that locked.
His version raised cooking
temperatures by 15% over boiling, and accordingly reduced cooking time. However,
regulating the steam and temperature was difficult, and explosions were common.
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The Beginnings of Canning
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The canning process is a product of the Napoleonic wars. Malnutrition was
rampant among the 18th century French armed forces and as Napoleon prepared for
his Russian campaign, he needed a better means to provide
food for his troops, so he offered a prize of twelve
thousand francs to someone that could find a way to preserve food.
The process was invented in France in 1795 by Nicholas Appert, a Parisian candy maker
won the prize of 12,000 francs offered by Napoleon for a way to
prevent military food supplies from spoiling. Appert, called his method "appertisation" ,
and he was the forerunner of canning as we know it today. Appert placed fresh products
(meat, vegetables) in wide-mouthed glass jars which were then heated in a
boiling water bath. Finally, the jars were hermetically sealed with corks.
Although the causes of food spoilage were unknown at the time, Appert was an
astute experimenter and observer. Noting that wine store
in airtight bottles didn't spoil, he filled wide-mouth glass
bottles with meats and
vegetables, carefully corked them and sealed
them with pitch, and then
heated them in boiling water.
By 1804, Appert opened his first vacuum-packing
plant. His nephew, Raymond Chevallier-Appert improved upon the design
by inventing (and patenting) an early version of the pressure canner
to vacuum seal foods in clean jars, leading to the eventual development of the
canning industry.
The canning
process was so important that it was a French military secret,
but it soon leaked across the English
Channel. In 1810 Peter Durance, an Englishman, patented the
use of metal containers for canning,which was perfected by Bryan Dorkin and John Hall, who set up the first
commercial canning factory in England in 1813. By the next year others had opened
factories. The troops that faced off at Waterloo had canned rations, and soon, these "tinned"
foods were used to feed the British army and navy. Thomas Kensett, who emigrated to the United States, established the first U.S.
canning facility for oysters, meats, fruits and vegetables in New York in 1812.
More than 50 years later, Louis Pasteur provided the explanation for canning's
effectiveness when he was able to demonstrate that the growth of microorganisms
is the cause of food spoilage.
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Early
Use
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In the USA the first pressure cooker patents were
granted in 1902. Early commercial pressure cookers were huge industrial-size pressure vessels.
In 1905 they were known as
"canner retorts," and
were primarily used by commercial canneries.
Soon fifty gallon capacity pressure pots for hotel and institutional use were developed.
Next, thirty-gallon canners for
hotel were manufactured by National Presto, then called
Northwestern Iron and Steel Works. for
pressure cooking meals rather than canned
goods. Soon thereafter, the ten-gallon models, more suitable for home
canning, were also developed.
Light weight aluminum was used
in manufacturing large-size pressure canners for home use to promote home canning as a means of preserving food
in the days before refrigeration.
In 1917, the United States Department of Agriculture determined that pressure canning was the only safe
method of canning low-acid foods without risking food poisoning. Pressure canners were in widespread use since
refrigeration was mostly non-existent at that time and
canning was the main method of preserving food.
In 1915 the term "pressure cooker" first appeared
in print and National Presto installed an aluminum foundry for the specific
purpose of manufacturing large-size pressure canners for home use and thrifty housewives everywhere wanted one. In 1938 Alfred Vischler introduced his Flex-Seal Speed Cooker at a New York
city trade show, the very first pressure
saucepan for preparing meals rather
than canning. (Believe
it or not people are still trying to
use these old relics) Vischler's idea
was so successful that it wasn't long
before other manufacturers in America and Europe
were making many brands
of pressure cookers to
keep up with the growing popularity,
As people migrated from the country,
and a farming lifestyle, to the cities
and suburban living they wanted all
the comfort foods that mom made in the
big pressure canner at home. Housewives
wanted a smaller, more convenience
size so the new "pressure saucepan"was
developed. Smaller than the big farm-sized
canning kettles, the new, smaller aluminum
pressure cookers were
perfect for the smaller size of new
families and the modern kitchen of the
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War Time Popularity
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In 1941,at the start of WWII, smaller,
cast aluminum pressure cookers enjoyed
widespread popularity in most American
homes. The
production of pressure cookers by eleven major manufacturers was tightly
regulated during World War II, as aluminum was needed for the war effort, and it
wasn't long before the manufacturing of
aluminum pressure cookers came to a halt.
In 1943 Presto made the following statement in Life magazine:
The manufacturing facilities of the makers of PRESTO COOKERS are now devoted to war production. Once victory is won – there will be Presto Cookers for everybody. Until then, if you own one, share it, won’t you? It’s a good neighbor policy.
Cooks held onto their prewar pressure
cookers and often several families
shared a single cooker. In a time when
fuel and food were rationed and shortages
were
commonplace, the pressure cooker was fast
becoming a necessity rather than a mere
convenience.
During the war years larger
canners made of steel (not the stainless kind) continued to manufactured
under approval of the War Production Board for the extremely important victory gardens.
Food and fuel shortages forced a return
to home canning, and several government
programs supported the home front. Read more about vintage
and used pressure cookers
and safety.
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The
End of the Beginning
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By 1945, with the war ending, the pent-up demand for pressure cookers was tremendous. The demand exceeding the supply and homemakers everywhere put their names on waiting lists. In following years
there were 85 US manufacturers trying to convert from war products to making pressure cookers and canners, but what they DIDN'T know about pressure cookery brought about the decline and fall of pressure cooking in America.
Competition
was steep, and manufacturers tried to
cut costs by producing cheaper, poor quality
pressure cookers. Production methods
favored quantity rather than quality
and these inferior products flooded the market
from the late 40's through 50's.
Busy cooks who had replied on their
pre-war cookers rushed to buy new ones.
New families were in the making and
the newly married wives bought pressure
cookers so they could cook the same
recipes that mom made. Cooks suddenly found exploding
pressure bombs in their kitchens and
as the word spread about these flawed
pressure cooker, people became reluctant to use them. The
frequency of pressure cooker accidents
founded the familiar expression
of "...in a pressure cooker",
implying disaster is imminent.
The old
horror stories still abound, just as
those aged, antique, and vintage pressure
cookers still do. A great many of those
dangerous old pressure cookers are still
around, and are often sold at places
such as EBAY, garage sales, and estate
sales, as well as passed on from generation
to generation as family keepsakes. Unfortunately
the problems also persist to
this day, as people find these poorly
manufactured pressure cookers in the
attics and basements of their grandmothers
and great aunts and still try to use
them.
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Decline and Fall
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One by one manufacturers went out
of business as cooks stopped using the
post war pressure cookers. Only
a few manufacturers could afford to
stay in business as sales plummeted.
The few diehard pressure cooker
users were demanding a better quality pressure
cooker, but manufacturers, burdened
with overstocked warehouses, were slow
to comply with consumer demands.
When the new and improved models finally came on the market it was too little, too late and pressure cookery began a steady decline.
Marked
with a bad reputation, pressure cooker usage continued
to decline, and coupled with newer, modern cooking methods such as the arrival of the microwave
oven,
the art of pressure cookery nearly disappeared
in the US. In the 70's there was a brief
resurgence in pressure cooker popularity
with many younger cooks drawn to a rural,
back-to-nature lifestyle.
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European Style
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While American cooks were storing
their pressure cookers down in the basement,
Europeans were
still happily using their old reliable
pre-war cookers and never had the problems
of their American counterparts. By the
1950's European and Asian manufacturers
were reaping the benefits of the War
Reparations Act. Capital was invested
for research and development to produce
new designs and improved safety features
that lead to the modern pressure cookers
of today.
European and Asian manufacturers developed new valve systems, redundant safety features and updated pressure release methods.
American manufacturers have again been slow
to adapt the new designs and the jiggle
top remains the US standard.
In the
early 90's European manufacturers cracked
the American market, importing the newest
models and bragging about their new
safety features, quiet operation and
the scorch-resistant layered bases. American
cooks are once again discovering the
benefits of pressure cookery with fast,
economical, efficient and nutritious
meals that appeal to busy and health
conscious American consumers.
Millions of cooks in Europe and Asia continue to rely
heavily on pressure cookers. In
countries where the cost of fuel, natural
gas, propane, and electricity is very
high, pressure cookers are an economic
necessity in every home. India, Japan,
Spain, Switzerland, and Germany manufacture
several brands of pressure cookers that
are exported to the US.
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Pressure Cookers Today
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New pressure cookers, with their multiple safety features and improved vent
systems, are once more catching on in the US market. Busy
cooks with hectic schedules, demanding
jobs, an active family and little spare
time are looking for fast, economical
ways for preparing home-cooked, nutritious
meals. TV ads market
overpriced pressure cookers with fancy
new names, touting the "latest,
greatest, new invention" to cooks who would
never have considered buying a pressure
cooker. Wide spread advertising
has brought with it a popular resurgence of
interest in pressure cookery, and this old-fashioned cooking method
is suddenly new again.
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