A Cuisinart ice cream maker that won’t turn on can be diagnosed, and in many cases, it’s easier than you think. It might click but not start; then the mix melts. If so, look for one of these three culprits first; noting that none requires a trip out to buy a replacement appliance.
You should of check three common causes before you consider replacing the unit.
So you have pulled out the bottom housing to get a look at what’s going on in there. First, unplug the entire appliance. Then, unscrew the base cover before you remove the bottom housing.
Inspecting Internal Components
What this will reveal is the drive mechanism, wiring, and motor so you can visually inspect it. Now that you have the units removed from each other you can realy see what’s going on inside.
It is easier to spot a broken part when you can look at it directly.
If you can see what’s wrong, it’s easier to find.
Next, take a look at the power-on/off switch. This is often a common culprit when a trolling motor simply won’t turn on. Corroded and otherwise worn-out interior contacts prevents current from being passed to the remainder of the Cuisinart ice cream maker. Use a multimeter to check that the switch has continuity and is allowing voltage through. Assuming the switch passes, continue to the next potential issue.
If the switch is working, you can move on to the next possibility.
After inspecting the switch, also inspect the drive gear assembly and the motor. If the paddle doesn’t turn when it should but you hear a hum from the machine, the problem is probably in the motor or gears.
To test this, turn the plastic paddle attached to the motor shaft by hand. It shouldn’t bind or have any grinding sound. It should turn freely and smoothly. If the bearings on the motor is seized or the gears are stripped, then the unit won’t run.
In this case, the jamming is a mechanical one that never lets the startup sequence finish.
If you have one of the models with a UK style plug then you need to check the fuse that’s housed in the plug. Simply open the fuse section on the plug and take out the little fuse and examine it.
If the machine just died then there’s a good chance the internal fuse has gone. This internal fuse is designed to prevent surges of power reaching any internal parts but when it blows, it will interrupt the circuit. Don’t simply throw it away; get ready to test it for continuity.
If it’s a bad fuse, that can easily be fixed.
If it’s a connectivity test then just get out your multimeter and put one probe on one end of the fuse and the other probe on the other end. Is there continuity? If not, then it says “OL” on the screen.
So now we know if the fuse blew and won’t allow power through to the motor. If this is your problem, you don’t have to buy a new machine.
Is there a working freezer? Does it contain ice cubes?
Are all wires intact? Is the motor spinning freely? Is the fuse good? If so, compare that to what is expected. Are all parts inside the machine clean and free of obstruction?
Replace the broken part. Now your machine is functioning normaly. This quick troubleshooting leads to a fully working appliance.
