Aroma Rice Cooker Repair: Is your rice cooker not working? Before you toss it in the trash, check the internal fuse. It’s possible that something caused the power to be cut off inside machine. To test it, follow these simple steps with just a few basic tools and some safety guidelines.
Remove the appliance from the plug on the wall. That way there’s no chance of electricity running to the base when you’re working on it. Lay out the cooker on a level and solid surface. Always work safely when working inside an electrical device.
Testing the Fuse With a Multimeter
So take off bottom cover to get at the innards. A few simple clips holds the bottom cover in place instead of screws. Simply grab it with your fingers, gently pry the edges apart, and the plastic tab will pop out. You don’t need much effort or any special tools. The cover just pops right out.
Set the cover aside where you can see everything clearly inside base unit. You’ll notice the heating assembly and all of its wiring inside the base unit.
We see three colors of wire (red, white and blue) passing through middle area around the round metal plate. Everything lines up well enough you shouldn’t really need any high-tech electronics to figure out anything here.
Find the piece that regulates electricity into the device. In this case it’s the fuse located at the junction between electrical cord and internal wiring. It is near the power input on the inside of the unit.
To determine whether it’s a blown fuse, you’ll want to use a multimeter. In continuity mode (the dial will show this), you can immediately see if something is either closed or open. Simply touch one probe end to each side of the fuse and watch what the meter shows you immediately. In a few seconds after touching the fuse contacts, the meter will let you know all there is to know about it. This is how most dead appliance troubleshooting goes.
If there’s a connection from one point to another, you’ll hear a beep from the meter. If you’re testing a part that has free-flowing current, you’ll also hear a solid tone that lets you know it’s conducting electricity with no obstructions. If there is no sound, something is broken somewhere between here and there.
In this case, I tested the fuse for connectivity and discovered it had burned out entirely. I touched both probe ends on each terminal but didn’t get a beep sound. On the display, it didn’t read out low resistance; it read open line.
That told me the fuse was either blown from a surge or blew during a load condition. If it were good and functioning properly, it would of shown zero to very little resistance. In your case, you are seeing much higher readings until finally reaching open circuit. The meter doesn’t beep either which clearly tells us it’s bad.
You retested and it’s still there. No, your eyes didn’t trick you on that first set of readings. You’ve checked several times, and each time is exactly the same. Having consistent results reduces any doubt about what might be causing this. That is how many simple problems becomes easy to identify. An open reading on the continuity test means it cannot be operated immediately.
So what that means is no current will flow to the display board or to power the heating element. With this gap all that’s happening is the rest of the motherboard sits there dead and won’t do anything for you if you’re trying to cook something on it. Knowing where it went bad helps prevent having to guess at other motherboard issues.
Replace your blown fuse and everything should be good to go again on the Aroma rice cooker. Use a replacement with the exact same rating as the original component. Once the new fuse is installed plug it back into the wall. The digital screen will instantly light up again after this repair. That solves the problem just fine. Your unit should work again.
