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Determining Which Wine Goes with a Meal
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Every dish is dynamic — it's made up of several ingredients
and flavors that interact to create a (more or less) delicious whole. Every
wine is dynamic in exactly the same way. When food and wine combine in your
mouth, the dynamics of each change; the result is completely individual to each
dish-and-wine combination. When wine
meets food, several things can happen:
- The food can exaggerate a characteristic of
the wine. For example, if you eat walnuts (which are tannic) with a tannic red
wine, such as a Bordeaux, the wine
tastes so dry and astringent that most people would consider it undrinkable.
- The
food can diminish a characteristic of the wine. Protein diminishes tannin, for
example, and an overly tannic red wine — unpleasant on its own — could be
judged delightful when you drink it with a rare steak.
- The
flavor intensity of the food can obliterate the wine's flavor or vice versa. If
you've ever drunk a big, rich red wine with a delicate filet of sole, you've
had this experience first-hand.
- The wine can contribute new flavors to the
dish. For example, a red Zinfandel that's gushing with berry fruit can bring
its berry flavors to the dish, as if another ingredient had been added to the
recipe.
- The
combination of wine and food can create an unwelcome third-party flavor that
wasn't in either the wine or the food originally. For example, you may get a
metallic flavor when you eat plain white meat turkey with red Bordeaux.
- The
food and wine can interact perfectly, creating a sensational taste experience
that is greater than the food or the wine alone.
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Properties Of Wine
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Fortunately, what happens between food and
wine is not haphazard. Certain elements of food react in predictable ways with
certain elements of wine, giving us a fighting chance at making successful
matches. The major components of wine (alcohol, sweetness, acid, and tannin)
relate to the basic tastes of food (sweetness, sourness, bitterness, and
saltiness) like the way that the principle of wine balance operates: Some of
the elements exaggerate each other, and some of them compensate for each other.
Here are some ways that food and wine
interact, based on the components of the wine. Remember, each wine and each
dish has more than one component, and the simple relationships described can be
complicated by other elements in the wine or the food. Whether a wine is
considered tannic, sweet, acidic, or high in alcohol depends on its dominant
component.
Tannic Wines
Tannic wines include most wines based on the Cabernet
Sauvignon grape, including red Bordeaux, northern Rhône reds, Barolo and
Barbaresco, and any wine — white or red — that has become tannic from aging in
new oak barrels. These wines can
diminish the perception of sweetness in a food, n
taste softer and less tannic when served with protein-rich, fatty foods, such
as steak or cheese, and taste less bitter when paired with salty
foods. They can taste astringent, or mouth-drying, when
drunk with spicy-hot foods
Sweet Wines
Some wines that often have some sweetness include most
inexpensive California white wines, White Zinfandel, many Rieslings (unless
they are labeled "dry" or "trocken"), and medium-dry
Vouvray. Sweet wines also include dessert wines, such as Port,
sweetened Sherries, and late-harvest wines. These wines can taste less sweet,
but fruitier, when matched with salty foods can make salty foods more appealing and go well with sweet foods
Acidic Wines
Acidic wines include most Italian white wines; Sancerre,
Pouilly-Fumé, and Chablis; many red wines from Rioja; most dry Rieslings; and
wines based on Sauvignon Blanc that are fully dry. These wines taste less
acidic when served with salty foods and taste less acidic when served with slightly
sweet foods, make foods taste slightly saltier and counterbalance oily or fatty heaviness in food
High Alcohol Wines
High alcohol wines include many California
wines, both white and red; southern Rhône whites and reds; Barolo and
Barbaresco; fortified wines, such as Port and Sherry;
and most wines produced from grapes grown in warm climates. These wines can
overwhelm lightly flavored or delicate dishe but go well with slightly sweet foods.
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Birds Of A Feather, Or Opposites Attract?
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These days, wine and food people acknowledge that two
principles can help in matching wine with food: the complementary principle and
the contrast principle. The complementary principle involves choosing a wine
that is similar in some way to the dish you are planning to serve, while the
contrast principle (not surprisingly) involves combining foods with wines that
are dissimilar to them in some way.
- The characteristics of a wine that can either resemble or
contrast with the characteristics of a dish are the wine's flavors: Earthy, herbal, fruity, vegetal, and so
on.
- The intensity of flavor in the wine: Weak flavor intensity,
moderately flavorful, or very flavorful
- The wine's texture: Crisp and firm, or soft and supple
- The weight of the wine: Light-bodied, medium-bodied, or
full-bodied
You probably use the complementary principle often without
realizing it: You choose a light-bodied wine to go with a light dish, a
medium-bodied wine to go with a fuller dish, and a full-bodied wine to go with
a heavy dish. Some other examples of the complementary principle in action are:
- Dishes with flavors that resemble those in the wine. Think
about the flavors in a dish the same way you think about the flavors in wine —
as families of flavors. If a dish has mushrooms, it has an earthy flavor; if it
has citrus or other elements of fruit, it has a fruity flavor (and so on). Then
consider which wines would offer their own earthy flavor, fruity flavor, herbal
flavor, spicy flavor, or whatever. The earthy flavors of white Burgundy
complement risotto with mushrooms, for example, and an herbal Sancerre
complements chicken breast with fresh herbs.
- Foods with texture that's similar to that of the wine. A
California Chardonnay with a creamy, rich texture could match the rich, soft
texture of lobster, for example.
- Foods and wines whose intensity of flavor match. A hearty
meat dish like a stew would be at home with a hearty, full-bodied wine,
especially if the wine had earthy flavors like the root vegetables in the stew.
The contrast principle seeks to find flavors or texture in a
wine that are not in a dish but that would enhance it. A dish of fish or
chicken in a rich cream and butter sauce, for example, may be matched with a
dry Vouvray, a white wine whose crispness (thanks to its uplifting, high
acidity) would counterbalance the heaviness of the dish.
A dish with earthy flavors, such as portobello mushrooms and
fresh fava beans (or potatoes and black truffles), may contrast nicely with the
pure fruit flavor of an Alsace Riesling. You also apply the contrast principle
every time you decide to serve simple food, like unadorned lamb chops or hard
cheese and bread, with a gloriously complex aged wine
In order to apply
either principle, of course, you have to have a good idea of what the food is
going to taste like and what various wines taste like. That second part can be
a real stumbling block for people who don't devote every ounce of their free
energy to learning about wine. The solution is to ask your wine merchant. A
retailer may not have the world's greatest knack in wine and food pairings
(then again, he or she may), but at least he should know what his wines taste
like.
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