Spice Up Your Cooking with Peppers

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Types of Peppers

Scoville Heat Scale

How to Stop the Heat

Using Dried Chiles

Roasting Peppers

Preparation

What's in a Name?

Take your pick of spellings: chile(s), chili(s,es), chille(s), chilli(s,es), chillie(s), chilley(s), chilly(s,ies). Debates about the spelling are endless, and this controversy has even made it into The Congressional Record. Senator Pete Domenici (R-N.M.) noted in 1983: "New Mexicans know that `chili' is that inedible mixture of watery tomato soup, dried gristle, half-cooked kidney beans, and a myriad of silly ingredients that is passed off as food in Texas and Oklahoma." But at least Domenici allowed Texans to spell their chili with an i to differentiate it from the New Mexican versions of the dish.

Texans insist on spelling both the pod and the dish with an i, which is their prerogative. New Mexicans refuse to acknowledge that the word chili even exists, which is their right, and they spell the plant, pod, and dish with an e. In Illinois, for some strange reason, the dish is spelled chilli. In the end, say the true chiliheads, it really doesn't matter how you spell it-so long as you love it.

For the past couple of decades, writers who must use these terms quite often, such as ourselves, have reached an informal agreement on style. To avoid confusing the plant and pod with the bowl o' red, we use chile, the original Spanish-Mexican spelling, to refer to the plant and the pod. The word chili means the dish of meat and peppers. It is an abbreviated form of chili con carne, which is a curious combination of the Anglicized chili (from chile) and the Spanish carne (meat). Interestingly enough, some early California recipes were for carne con chile, which is actually a more accurate description, in Spanish, of the chili of today.

As early as 1949, Arthur and Bobbie Coleman, authors of The Texas Cookbook, noted: "The dish itself, the completed product, is chili with one `1' and an `i' on the end.... The word chile means a hot pepper, the fruit, not the powdered product. To spell the name of the dish chile would lead to confusing it with the main ingredients."

Using Dried Chiles

Dried chiles are usually soaked until soft, then pureed. To soften dried chiles, place them in a pan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Remove pan from heat and allow chiles to soak until softened (the skin may still feel papery and tough, but the pulp will be tender). Before pureeing, remove stems and seeds. Process chiles in a blender or food processor with only enough liquid to make a paste. Paste can be refined further by pressing it through a sieve.

Chile purists scorn the use of so-called Chili Powder found in the supermarket spice section. It is dark brown in color and may contain garlic powder, oregano, cumin and salt. Pure ground chile is deep red in color and imparts a far sweeter and more full-bodied taste to foods.

As you become more experienced in cooking with chiles, you will be able to substitute not only one variety for another, but dried for fresh, fresh for canned, and so forth, depending upon what is available. You may substitute chile powder for whole dried chiles in dishes calling for pureed chiles. Allow about one tablespoon of powder for each large chile.

Preparation

Since much of the heat is contained in the seeds and membranes, they are usually removed from raw peppers.

Roasting Peppers

To roast the peppers, cut them open and remove the stem, seeds and the ribs. Put the dried peppers on a cookie sheet and flatten them out. Position them two to three inches from the heat and and rotate/turn them as the skin blackens and blisters, watch carefully to avoid burning. Put the peppers in a closed paper bag to steam which loosens the skin. When they are cool enough to handle, peel the charred peppers by rubbing off the skin with a crumbled paper towel.