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Busy cooks often ask about cooking
frozen meat, but since the results
are so often tasteless and unappetizing,
I want to show how quick and easy it
is to thaw
it first. Most single cut of meat like chicken
pieces, chops or steaks only need to be
partially thawed so the outer surface can
be` browned. Frozen meat cannot
be browned so it must be at least partially defrosted.
Use a microwave or a bowl of tap water for
quick thawing.
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Browning, or the Maillard reaction, creates
flavor and changes the color
of food. Until the Maillard reaction occurs meat
will have relatively little flavor. Maillard
reactions generally only begin to occur above 285°F
(140°C).
If you just toss meat into pan, a stew, use
a slow-cooker, or roast in a low-temperature oven where
the temperature will
never get above the boiling point of water (212°F or
100°C), the Maillard reactions will never take place.
Meat will be cooked, but tasteless, this is why recipes
almost always instruct
to brown the meat on all sides first to develop the flavor of meat.
The Maillard reactions occur only at the surface
of the meat, because the moisture in the meat keeps
the interior from getting above 212°F. To get the most
flavor from meat, cut it into smaller pieces
to expose more surface area to be browned. |
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The
Maillard reaction occurs when
the proteins on the surface
of the meat recombine with
sugars in the food.
In the early twentieth
century, Louis Camille Maillard
happened upon what came to be
known as the Maillard reaction.
In
the 1940s and 1950s scientists
discovered as
many as six hundred components in the
aroma of browned beef.
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A heavy stainless steel pan with a 3-ply
base,is the best, or a well
seasoned cast iron for even heat distribution. Conveniently,
your pressure cooker can be used for browning
and sauteing most meats. I prefer a pressure cooker that
is stainless steel
with a 3-ply base so
there is no need to use a separate
skillet. The exception might
be a large roast which may be harder to turn the meat
within
a high-sided pressure cooker, in that case you may find
it easier to use a skillet.
Never use a fork for flipping, it pierces the
meat and lets the juices escape. Use good, sturdy, long handled SS tongs, or
a metal spatula to meat. Another
handy item to have on hand is a splatter
screen.
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With
all the concerns over possible health
problems connected to nonstick pans
I'm retiring my one pan. If you know the secret
to nonstick cooking - a well heated, heavy pan
and a bit of hot fat -then you don't need non-stick
anyway. Nonstick pans have another serious flaw: they don't
brown or caramelized meats or other foods very well. The coating impedes heat
conduction. This makes it difficult to brown foods and generally makes these
pans unacceptable to cooking enthusiasts.We know all those tasty
browned bits provides
the savory underpinnings of sauces, stews, and gravies. This develops because
the drippings from the food stick to the pan and brown; no sticking, no browning = no
taste. So I advise you to "stick" with a
plain metal (cast iron or stainless steel) to brown.
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butter and oil can be used in browning the main
difference is flavor. Vegetable oil has a higher burning point than butter, Use an oil with a high
smoke point like corn oil. If using oils which "spit" a lot when they
are heated up to a high temperature (such as olive oil),
a high-sided pan like your pressure cooker keeps the
spattering to a minimum.
To reduce smoke from burning
choose the cooking
oil carefully, and cook with oils that can handle
high heat without smoking. For example, refined avocado oil can be heated to
just under 500°F before smoking, while unrefined safflower oil will smoke when
heated to just under 225°F.
The oil is there to transfer
heat; as long as the oil is hot when you add the meat,
very little will be added to the final dish.
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When browning meat, it is often desirable
to add chopped onions - garlic to further
enhance the flavor. The meat should be partially browned
before they are added. If you are using aromatic herbs such as rosemary,
pepper, or sage, you can add them immediately so that they can impart their
flavors to the meat. The meat should be seasoned with salt only after it has
first been well browned. Recipe for a Meat
Browning Rub.
The meat can be dredged in flour before browning
if you want to
have a thicker sauce. This is especially good for stews,
soups and gravy. The browned flour also increases
flavors. Dredge the meat in flour and then
brown it until it has turned a rich, deep brown on all
sides. When you add
the liquid the browned flour left behind
combines
with the liquid and the cooking fat in the pan to form
a thicker, richer sauce.
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At what point does "browning" become "caramelizing"? Both browning
and"caramelizing result in a
brown color and leaves behind a
thick, dark goo on the bottom of your pan that some
inexperienced cooks discard (oh, the horror!) without
realizing all the flavor, taste and aroma they are loosing.
There are two types of browning, in the case of meat it's
called the Maillard reaction which occurs when substances containing both protein and sugar are
heated over 360°F. Carmelization only
occurs in foods that contain
sugar. When
you saute, or brown most foods they release natural
sugars,and when sugar melts it caramelizes.
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What's on This Page
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In
Advance:
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Prepare all ingredients
and seasonings, onion, garlic
etc. needed for your
recipe in the quantities required in advance. The classic French culinary term for this
step is mise en place, or "put in place." This is important because you won't want to be
hunting for something and measuring it when hot oil is smoking up your kitchen.
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Browning meat is just that: searing the meat to a
deep rich brown color on a very high or moderately high heat. Browning seals in the flavor
and juices and at the same time it makes the meat more
appealing to the eye and creates a delicious aroma.
Before browning
meat, be sure that it is wiped dry. Moisture, as well
as a pan that isn't hot enough, will make meat stick, so
use paper towels and pat the meat dry.
You are not cooking the meat when browning, you are
developing flavor.
A hot pan creates that tasty, flavorful,
browned, seared
crust.
Remember though, once your pan is preheated, it's
time to quickly add the butter and/or oil. The butter or oil will actually bring down the
pan temperature, so crank up the
heat before adding meat for browning.
Preheating the Pan
Set the pan on a fairly low heat until it warms up to about 180 degrees F , this
may take about 3 minutes. Don't preheat it on
high or you will burn the fat as soon as you put it in the pan. I know what
you're thinking. " If you put it on low, won't the pan keep getting hotter
and hotter?" That's what I use to think but the answer is no. The pan
will only get as hot as the amount of heat (btu's) you apply to it. If you
preheated a pan on low, it would get to a maximum temperature and that's it. To
get more heat you have to add more btu's - turn up the heat.
Adding Oil to the
Pan Once the pan is heated its time
to add the fat. A good way
to check that the pan is
properly heated is by
adding a few drops of
water to the hot
pan,and they should
sizzle and dance across
the surface. At this
point you can add the oil
and again heat it, which
may take another minute,
before adding any
food. Add just a
little bit of oil to coat the bottom of the pan, excess oil will be absorbed by
food resulting in greasy taste. Spread oil by gently
tilting pan, allowing oil to swirl over inside of pan bottom. Do consider using
a splatter screen.
As the butter or oil heats
it will actually bring down the pan
temperature , so crank up the heat. It is important to heat the
fat until it is very hot so that the meat can brown quickly without
releasing its juices. Use HIGH heat for pieces less than 1/2 inch. This will
caramelize food and prevent overcooking. Use MEDIUM-HIGH heat for pieces greater than 1/2 inch.
Thicker pieces caramelize with lower heat because cooking time is longer.
When is it Hot Enough?
Wait until oil begins to smoke faintly before adding
food. If oil hasn't begun to smoke, then pan is NOT hot enough and
foods will absorb oil. When you see the bare beginnings of
smoke (but not so hot as to be burning) then the pan is hot enough to add the
food.
If oil is smoking too much, pan is TOO hot and foods will
burn. To
check if the pan is hot enough, hold whatever you'll be cooking with a pair of tongs and touch
one edge to the bottom of the hot pan and the food will slide
easily on the light film of oil. If it sticks, the pan needs to be hotter.
Adding the Meat
Do not overfill the pan with
meat as otherwise the juices escaping from the meat
will not have time to evaporate and the meat will steam
rather than brown. It will remain gray in
color and not develop flavor. Add the meat in small batches if needed,
as the meat is browning, turn it to brown all sides
dark brown. The deeper
the color, the more flavor you will have in the final
product as well as a richer gravy, broth or sauce. To get that nice, brown crust leave the food
alone in the skillet, so no poking or nudging. Add
additional oil as needed and drain the browned meats on
paper toweling.
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It's
NOT burned!
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What's with all those browned
bits? Many recipes call for dissolving and scraping up
all the "brown bits" that have stuck to the
bottom of the pan because that's where all the flavor
is. This is called deglazing
the pan, and all those burned, crusty, dark brown bits
on the bottom of your pan are so valuable in adding
richer taste and flavor. So do not scrape them out of
your pan!
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Deglazing is chef talk for adding liquid to a pan
in which you just sauteed, or browned some kind of
meat in oil or butter. You deglaze the pan in order
to unlock the color and flavor of the juices that have
browned on the bottom of your pan.
After you have browned the meat and removed it from
the pan, remove the excess fat. Heat the pan over medium-high
heat as you add about a cup of which ever liquid of
your choice. The heat will help loosen and dissolve
the really stubborn deposits as you scrape the pan with
a straight edged metal spatula. The
deglazing liquid can be wine, stock, almost any liquid,
even water. The idea is to loosen up any bits of meat
and all that "burned" on stuff stuck on the
bottom of the pan and incorporate them into the liquid
because they have lots of flavor. The resulting liquid
will become the broth in your stew or soup, or a gravy.
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